THE GREAT ESCAPE
For reasons that will soon become clear, I have asked Joe to let me write this blog. Even as I (literally) peel the last tick off my body and throw away the contents of my mud-soaked day pack, the events of yesterday seem a little surreal...
During our long journey back from our Bolivian Amazon tour (with 9 people squashed into a 6-man vehicle), we hit a roadblock. Now this was no London style roadblock marked with cones, patrolled by police and with clear diversion signs; this was a Bolivian roadblock: about 100 people blocking the road screaming and shouting, wielding sticks and machetes and charging down anyone (whether walking or in a vehicle) who attempted to bypass the blockade.
Abandoned by our vehicle, we attempted to negotiate with the protesters, explaining we were tourists and had no issue with their politics (they were supposedly protesting against a local school being closed down). When our attempts at conciliation were met by nothing but increased aggression (they hurled rocks at us), we backpedalled quickly and joined the ever growing group of tourists huddled helplessly a few hundred metres away. Whilst the Spanish speakers among us asked around for alternative roads (there were none), pleaded (again) with the protesters, called tour agencies etc., Joe was engaged in an intense discussion with a 16 year old Bolivian boy who lived on the street. After half-an-hour he announced to our group (that had grown to 50), that he had convinced this kid to guide us through the dense rainforest around the blockade for the sum of 1000 Bolivianos (a lot in local currency - especially for a child of that age - but equivalent to only £100 between us all). Even with the money on offer, convincing the kid (and his family) to accept the offer was no easy task - they were very scared of the potential consequences if the protesters discovered he was helping us.
And so, one by one (so as not to alert the machete wielding crazies), we slid into the depths of the jungle. Not long into the trek, I was - unbeknownst to Joe - helping a young family at the back of the group, when we fell behind and became stranded. After discovering I was missing, Joe gallantly ran back to find me (lost and dripping wet after taking a wrong turn into a swamp). And so began our journey: already exhausted from the long boat and jeep ride to that point, and carrying our backpacks and day packs, we (literally) hacked our way through the mosquito-ridden Amazon rainforest in the mid-afternoon sun. We waded through knee-deep swamps, carried little kids and clambered over barbed wire (all the while silent to avoid detection by the protesters).
After 2 hours, burnt, dehydrated, scratched, bruised and aching, our group of 50-something tourists (almost all strangers at the beginning of our adventure) emerged from the forest onto a dirt track on the other side of the blockade. As we all collapsed at the end of the hike: caked in mud but safe, smiling (and yearning for a shower), it felt - as someone said - like the exodus from Egypt. As we bundled into taxis to take us into town, everyone that passed us took a moment to thank Joe. I have no doubt that if it wasn't for him - we'll call him Moses to continue the exodus metaphor(!) - we would almost certainly still be helplessly waiting out the blockade (which is apparently due to continue for another four days).
And so, Joe...as I sit here nursing my hangover from our celebratory drinks last night (which fortunately dulled the pain of our little expedition), I have an overpowering urge to say something cute and mushy about how you courageously led 50 people out of danger. But this is the World Wide Web, so I'll stick to a really heartfelt thank you - from me and from the 49 others you led through the Amazonian jungle. As you emerged from that clearing, makeshift staff in hand, looking as Beiber as ever with THAT hairdo and THAT baseball cap, I felt a bit like the supporting actor in the latest far-fetched Hollywood movie. I don't know what to say other than - I owe you one mate. Not quite sure how I'm going to pay you back...guiding you round a roadblock in Barnet doesn't quite feel like a fair deal...
Nick
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